Fuel, gas, petrol, motor spirit ...

... .probably the most important issue facing all classic car enthusiasts.

As you will all be aware by now, our excellent "super" grade of fuel is no more. It has been replaced for the moment by a far inferior product know by many names but generally as "lead replacement petrol". Owners of older high performance vehicles noticed a change very early on with their cars refusing to start in the mornings and a variety of other problems generally relating to rough running and lack of power.

The problem is not so obvious with our little cars as the performance level is low and they always run rough and are sometimes hard to start. Those with Niki engines will have noticed the effect more than those with their original engines. Engines "running on" and "pinking" are all too common with the new fuel.

More detrimental than these obvious signs to all our cars is the long term damage caused by the lack of a suitable "lubricant" for the valves and seats of our engines. This function was carried out by the lead in the old "super" fuel.

"What can I do?" I hear you cry.
"Not a lot" is the answer. But there are a variety of things that may help.

First thing is to make sure that your engine is always kept in a good state of tune.

Back the advance off a little for Niki engines

Next, ALWAYS purchase the best fuel you can get at the time.

"Premium" fuel has a high enough octane rating but will not protect your valves etc.

"Lead replacement" fuel will not protect your engine sufficiently and is not a high enough octane rating for Niki engined cars.

Another solution which helps is to use fuel additives.

There seem to be two types available at the moment.
1. A liquid which contains an upper cylinder lubricant that you mix with your "lead replacement" fuel.
2. A system where small quantities of tin is released into the fuel via an in-line canister.

The first is the easiest and cheapest option. My own tests reveal a slight improvement in both smoothness of running and lessening of "run on" and "pinking" Long term valve damage is yet to be tested.

The second is claimed to be the ultimate answer but at a price! Around $300 will buy you a small unit like an in- line fuel filter which is supposed to measure out a metered amount of tin into the fuel as it passes through. This increases the octane rating and provides lubrication in place of the lead.

I have some flyers of both types for anyone wanting further information.

Tony Potter.